Day 72: Palmerston North to Moturimu Whare Shelter (31km, 9 hours)

I slept rather fitfully last night. 

I was mostly worried about my blister. Last night it had been getting red around the edges, and white in the middle, and was weeping. I’d googled infected blister - bad idea, but enough to tell me this wasn’t good, especially as I am about to go off the grid for a week. During the night I thought seriously about staying an extra day in Palmy to see a chemist or doctor. However it looked somewhat better in the morning - not as red or weepy. Cassie’s mum’s magic ointment was helping I think! So I decided to go ahead as planned.

I felt a bit scared as I left at 7am. Out of contact for a week; arduous tramping over the Tararuas; infected blister. And torrential rain forecast for today. But I took a deep breath, and was off.

Today started following an cycleway, along and across the Manawatu river. After a few kilometres it turned into bush tracks (though with more than a few stairs), and then followed some quiet country roads, leading again to native bush.

Crossing the Manawatu River

Going down

I took a break to send my last texts, before cellphone coverage stopped.

10am pic: Sent my last texts. Feeling rather alone now

Drizzle started shortly after that. Then an hour later, heavy rain - at times torrential. Just as well I had new wet weather gear!

Slightly damp

On with the rain gear!

The route continued up a hill and along a mountain bike track, and country roads, following a stream through bush and farmland. Around here I must have passed the 1500km mark - that’s half-way to Bluff! Apparently there was a sign, though I must have missed it with my head down in the rain. 

Half-way to Bluff is probably somewhere around here!

Lunch in the rain. Time to open the emergency salami 

Outside the Arapuke mountain bike trail

Lovely paths here through the forest 

The rain is clearing! Windmills in the mist as I head uphill

Good to know I’m going the right way

Almost there…?

The rain finally stopped in the final hour. After heading down a forestry road, I finally arrived at today’s destination - Moturimu Whare Shelter, a basic shelter for TA hikers. It’s not really a hut - it has no door, and just some platforms inside to sleep on. But it’s cute!

No need to get out the tent. Woohoo!

As well as me, both Cassie and Erika from last night arrived, and we were joined by Jamie (UK). It was a very long and wet day today, and I was shattered. Time for my first dehydrated camp meal of this trip - beef curry - but after that it was an early night for all four of us. On New Year’s Eve!

Clockwise from left: Cassie, Jamie, Erika and me. 8pm New Years Eve, the party is in full swing

Today’s route.

Day 71: Fielding to Palmerston North (24km, 6 hours)

Goodbye Allison and John, hello road! I was off at 7am, although after stopping off for scrambled eggs at the cafe and a few supplies at the supermarket, it was 8am by the time I left Feilding.

John and Allison - and me with a big blob of sunscreen on my nose 🙄

Central Fielding. I originally had a room booked at the pub on the right - but there was live music, it would have been noisy!

There were more roads today - but they were more hiker-friendly than before, with walking paths, or no traffic. A couple of hours later, with ‘On the road again’ by Willie Nelson on high rotate in my head, I was in Bunnythorpe.

A path! Woohoo!

10am pic: raspberry + spearmint thickshake outside the Bunnythorpe dairy. Mmm, try it!

There was some nice variation around Bunnythorpe. A stream to cross! Stiles! Cutting through paddocks! Much better than roads.

The intrepid hiker is faced with a raging river

Didn’t even get my feet wet

Lots of stiles today, many carefully guarded. OK, these are just cows, should be safe

More stile guards

Awwwwwwww!!

Even more awwwwwww!!

By early afternoon I was on the outskirts of Palmerston North. My blister was starting to make its presence felt, so I was keen to get to my end goal - a night with new trail angels Brian and Paula.

Walking into Palmy

The path follows along the Manawatu River. Check out the wind turbines on the hills, they’re everywhere

Almost there! Just past this bridge I think…

I arrived about 2pm, earlier than I’d expected. Brian and Paula have a big house surrounded by fruit trees, so a perfect place to rest up before the big days ahead. My blister was getting sore (I hope not infected), so I borrowed Brian’s bike to cycle 2km in to get some more plasters from the supermarket. Fingers crossed it holds up for the tough days ahead.

Also staying here is Cassie! So we’ll be at the same camp sites from now on, and should be able to cross the Tararuas at the same time, which is nice. Cassie’s hiking partner gave up on the TA the first day after Whanganui, so Cassie is a bit nervous about completing the rest of the TA alone. I think it’s helpful for her to see how I’m doing by myself, and helpful to both of us to know there’ll be a familiar face at the campsites ahead.

My comfy room. This could be my last night in a bed for up to 10 days!

Erika (another TA), Cassie, Paula and Brian

Guess who was in their guest book from a year ago! My old canoe partner Jonnie! I’m following in her footsteps

On to serious matters now. For the next 3 days I’ll be heading into bush leading towards the Tararuas; and then the crossing itself, which will be a real challenge, and could take 4-7 days. I checked out mobile coverage from this point onwards, and the consensus is that there’s none. If they have a bit of wifi when I’m at the base of the Tararuas on Jan 2 I’ll do a quick post and send a few messages, but that’s no guarantee. So it’s very likely this will be my last blog entry for as much as 9 or 10 days. I plan to emerge into civilisation (Waikanae) on Jan 8, though that could be delayed a bit if there is bad weather. So, expect to hear from me around then.

We’ll I’ve washed my clothes, eaten my remaining ham roll from the bakery in Fielding, chatted to Cassie, Brian and Paula, and fretted about my blister and the days ahead. Off to sleep soon. Wish me luck - see you on the other side!

Today’s route.

Day 70: Bulls to Fielding (23km, 5.5 hours)

Jo warned me yesterday that everyone sleeps in here. She was right. The bunk was so comfy I didn’t surface until 7:30, and after waiting for a shower to pass if was finally 9am by the time I hit the road. Possibly my latest TA start ever!

Bye, Jo and Mike!

Also staying overnight was a fellow hiker Cassie. Her walking partner gave up just a day ago, so she’s worried about tackling the Tararuas solo. We decided to meet up at the base of the Tararuas in a few days time, and possibly head over together - there’s safely in numbers.

And bye, Cassie! But we may meet down the line…

Walking through Bulls, I got a sense that there’s not much here, apart from, um, bulls. And bull jokes. Oh yes, and traffic - Bulls is at the intersection of SH1 and SH3. It took me over 5 minutes to cross the road in town.

Where am I?

Very laugh-a-bull!

Good to know I’m going in the right direction!

Crossing the bridge over the Rangitīkei river 

Once I was out of town, today was an uneventful 23km plod along rural roads. I vaguely remember someone telling me last year that these first four days from Whanganui to Palmerston North probably involve the most road walking of the whole TA. And it’s true - road walking after a while is boring, and very hard on the feet. And the dance with oncoming traffic (ie. continually stepping off the road into the nonexistent verge) is not fun. I think that explains why I’ve seen very few TA hikers - I think many are taking a more direct route or even hitching to Palmerston North..

At least I have my music! In my mind that is. I think minor things trigger my song choices - for a long while I was humming ‘Samson’ by Regina Spector (best love song ever), which I think was triggered by the earlier road sign for Sanson. Then after I stopped for another Squirm I was left with ‘Jellybelly’ by the Smashing Pumpkins. Yes, I know, my mind works in strange ways. Eventually though I was just grumbling at my sore feet and at the oncoming cars.

10am pic: Yes, another bloody road

Stopping for a lunch break: a chicken roll at Mt Lees Reserve

My first glimpse of the Tararua Ranges… 😰

I was worried about my blister at first, but it had healed up somewhat overnight, and survived the day OK. I may have dodged a bullet there. However this road walking is taking its toll - it was only 23km today, but my sore feet had totally had enough by the time I finally staggered into Fielding at about 2:30pm.

My hosts today are trail angels Allison and John - keen artists and orchardists. They are kindly letting me camp for free on their lawn, and use the shower and facilities in their art studio. After a cup of tea, a chat and a tour of the studio, I set up my tent.

My home for tonight - sandwiched between an art studio, a garden and an orchard

Then in to town for a burger and beer at Murray’s Irish Bar!

OK, it’s been 3 days, I need a treat!

Back in my tent now, posting my blog. And already it’s 7:30pm. Night all, time for my beauty sleep!

Today’s route.

Day 69: Koitiatia to Bulls (31km, 8 hours)

Surprisingly, I got a reasonable amount of sleep, despite the fellow campers. I was up at 5:30am and on the road an hour later.

Well, on the beach anyway. The trail continued 13km further down the boneyards - which brought back a few memories of the start of my TA along 90 Mile Beach, three years ago. I plodded away, not much variation apart from the occasional fisherman. Beach walking takes its toll with the soft sand, and after 13km I was already tired.

That’s supposed to be my footsteps. Not sure if I blame the iPhone or the photographer. 

OK, how did Simon get chips and sauce in the middle of a remote beach? (Actually it’s a Squirm)

Eventually I found the path off the beach, hidden behind the driftwood and logs. It was an overgrown 4WD track through private iwi-owned forest, and after an hour emerged into - you guessed it - more roads. Another 14km of roads to go!

10am pic: Finally leaving the beach. Bye, Boneyards

My first OSM bar of the trip. If you can make out the Best Before date, it says 16 Apr 23. It must have been left over from last summer. Yes, it was awful.

But by now I was starting to struggle. It was hot. My feet and hips were sore. I’d developed a rather large blister, possibly from sand in my shoe. And I was very tired. I guess I was paying the price for two big days in a row. For the last two hours I just plodded along, counting the kilometres and trying to ignore the heat and my various aches and pains. 

Are we there yet? The problem with straight roads is that the end seems very far away

Eventually I came to the turnoff to where I’m staying tonight. Mike and Jo are trail angels who have set up a little hut and camp area for TA hikers at the bottom of their property. No need to pitch my tent tonight! I headed straight for the hut and crashed for at least an hour. They provided a beer, and even shared their roast lamb dinner with me and another TA hiker who arrived shortly after. Thanks so much Mike and Jo!

My home tonight

After dinner I chatted to the fellow hiker Cassie, and updated my blog from the hut - a rather slow process with the limited reception. My blister is a bit worrying - just as well it’s a shorter hike into Fielding tomorrow. Anyway, time for bed now. It’s been a big day - much harder than yesterday, even though it was a similar distance. Let’s see how my body is holding up in the morning.

Today’s route