Day 70: Bulls to Fielding (23km, 5.5 hours)

Jo warned me yesterday that everyone sleeps in here. She was right. The bunk was so comfy I didn’t surface until 7:30, and after waiting for a shower to pass if was finally 9am by the time I hit the road. Possibly my latest TA start ever!

Bye, Jo and Mike!

Also staying overnight was a fellow hiker Cassie. Her walking partner gave up just a day ago, so she’s worried about tackling the Tararuas solo. We decided to meet up at the base of the Tararuas in a few days time, and possibly head over together - there’s safely in numbers.

And bye, Cassie! But we may meet down the line…

Walking through Bulls, I got a sense that there’s not much here, apart from, um, bulls. And bull jokes. Oh yes, and traffic - Bulls is at the intersection of SH1 and SH3. It took me over 5 minutes to cross the road in town.

Where am I?

Very laugh-a-bull!

Good to know I’m going in the right direction!

Crossing the bridge over the Rangitīkei river 

Once I was out of town, today was an uneventful 23km plod along rural roads. I vaguely remember someone telling me last year that these first four days from Whanganui to Palmerston North probably involve the most road walking of the whole TA. And it’s true - road walking after a while is boring, and very hard on the feet. And the dance with oncoming traffic (ie. continually stepping off the road into the nonexistent verge) is not fun. I think that explains why I’ve seen very few TA hikers - I think many are taking a more direct route or even hitching to Palmerston North..

At least I have my music! In my mind that is. I think minor things trigger my song choices - for a long while I was humming ‘Samson’ by Regina Spector (best love song ever), which I think was triggered by the earlier road sign for Sanson. Then after I stopped for another Squirm I was left with ‘Jellybelly’ by the Smashing Pumpkins. Yes, I know, my mind works in strange ways. Eventually though I was just grumbling at my sore feet and at the oncoming cars.

10am pic: Yes, another bloody road

Stopping for a lunch break: a chicken roll at Mt Lees Reserve

My first glimpse of the Tararua Ranges… 😰

I was worried about my blister at first, but it had healed up somewhat overnight, and survived the day OK. I may have dodged a bullet there. However this road walking is taking its toll - it was only 23km today, but my sore feet had totally had enough by the time I finally staggered into Fielding at about 2:30pm.

My hosts today are trail angels Allison and John - keen artists and orchardists. They are kindly letting me camp for free on their lawn, and use the shower and facilities in their art studio. After a cup of tea, a chat and a tour of the studio, I set up my tent.

My home for tonight - sandwiched between an art studio, a garden and an orchard

Then in to town for a burger and beer at Murray’s Irish Bar!

OK, it’s been 3 days, I need a treat!

Back in my tent now, posting my blog. And already it’s 7:30pm. Night all, time for my beauty sleep!

Today’s route.