Day 68: Whanganui to Koitiatia (32km, 9 hours)

My last official day hiking, when I arrived in Whanganui almost a year ago, was Day 66 of my Te Araroa. In my usual fashion I’m skipping a day in my numbering in honour of the last year, so that means today is Day 68.

Janet and Celia waved me off at 6:45am, and Bryon dropped me to the starting point in town - basically at the central bridge. I have to start exactly where I finished last time, those are the rules! Bryon accompanied me over the bridge to see me on my way. Bryon, you were the first familiar face I saw after my last hike, and the last one as I left on this one. I had a lump in my throat as I watched you head back over the bridge.

On the bridge and ready to set off. Not a flattering pic, with the pack belt on it looks like I ate all the pies! Hopefully I lose a few kilos on this trip.

Watching Bryon head back (he’s the dot on the bridge). I guess I’m on my own now.

Well, deep breath, time to get going. The first hurdle was the steps up Durie Hill. There’s an elevator (Paul and I have been up it), but today I’m doing it old school.

HOW many stairs?

Finally made it to the top. Very steamy glasses - that’s a combination of light drizzle and lack of fitness

Once at the top of the hill, it was roads for the next 26km. Urban streets turned into rural ones, and within half an hour I was on the No.2 Line - which is the main road linking Whanganui and Fordell. After some initial drizzle the weather cleared, and I was making good progress, despite having to step into the verge whenever cars approached.

No music in my head today. In fact I found myself swearing a lot. Loudly. These TA hikes do help to release some of the pent up emotional baggage that has accumulated over the year, and I think I have quite a lot of it. I guess it’s better out than in. When there’s no one around I can swear at the top of my lungs - although the cyclist who snuck up on me from behind might have been a bit shocked. 

The No.2 Line. Ironic that I needed to christen the No.2 line with a No.2, half way along. Oh the shame. 

For you, Dad 🤪

10am pic: Time for a break. And a ham roll

By 10am it was getting rather warm. I had 3 ham rolls in my pack (thanks to Janet and Bryon’s Christmas ham), time for an early lunch. After this the roads continued, including 3-4km along State Highway 3. There was at least some verge, but my traffic-dodging skills were put to the test. It was a relief to turn off towards the beach, where I was headed.

My first TA sign!

Yet more roads. They clearly don’t believe in bends in these parts

Eventually the roads became a 4WD track, which finally ended up on the beach. A few years ago a TV ad (for drink driving?) referred to the “Boneyards”, and I think this is the place. The beach is covered with old trees, going on for miles. I guess they do look like bones.

Arriving at the infamous Boneyards. A.k.a the beach

From here it was a 4km walk down the beach. It was pretty hot, but at least there was a good breeze. And no more bloody roads.

Only a few km to go…

So tempting!

What’s the collective noun for Portuguese men-of-war? A flotilla? Or in this case, a stranding?

The Boneyards continued down the entire beach as far as the eye could see, dead trees and driftwood packed on the sand dunes. I realised after a while too that these were nesting grounds for gulls, who got very territorial when I strayed too close. I had to wave my poles above my head whenever they started to divebomb me. It was like a scene out of The Birds.

If you look carefully you’ll see the birds. Very Hitchcockian

Finally, I was at the end. All that was left was to ford a river 😱. Apparently this can only be done at low tide - luckily that was late afternoon today, so I had arrived at a good time. It was waist deep so I ended up perching my pack on my head, but crossed without any mishap.

No action shots of the river crossing unfortunately. Just me looking damp and satisfied

And around 4pm I was at the campsite. My feet and hip/glutes were sore, and I was tired after a 32km day. But all in all, it had gone well. However - the campsite was full of campervans and quad bikes. There was a space for my tent, but sadly not much quiet or privacy.

Ahh, home at last

Shame about the neighbours…

I’d seen no other TA hikers during the day, but three arrived later in the afternoon. So there are more of us out there! After finishing my remaining ham rolls for dinner, it was time for an early bed. I fell asleep to the sounds of dune bikes, shrieking children, Nikki Minaj and Metallica.

Night!

Today’s route (the blue dot is me)