Three weeks later… My last post

Um… is anyone still here?

It’s hard to believe that I’ve been home for almost three weeks now. School is starting tomorrow, and life is getting back to the way it always is. But, my hiking gear still hasn't been put away, and I still haven't done this last blog entry. I think I'm trying to delay returning to normality. And trying to avoid having to write this final Te Araroa post.

This journey started as a challenge during COVID in 2020/2021, walking home from Cape Reinga. But at the end of that and each following section there was always a sense that I might continue the following year. But this time is different - my TA adventure has finished now.

Why? I'm still not entirely sure. My decision to finish at the end of the North Island started to crystallize after bypassing the Tararuas, so maybe there was some disappointment there. But I think it was more that I was approaching a big milestone, the end of the North Island. The thought of reaching there kept me going, and after four challenging summers it started to feel like the right place to finally stop.

As I've mentioned before, the TA has felt for me like a long series of goodbyes. But saying my last goodbye to the TA itself has been the hardest of all. 

As I think back on my whole journey, I have a lot of questions that I feel I should try to answer. Why did I do it? What did it mean to me? What were the best bits? What were the biggest challenges? What did I learn? But I don't have clear answers to any of these. Trying to summarise it now, I can't come up with anything better than in my Day 80 post approaching Wellington: the TA for me has been about getting out and living my life, and about the passing of time, and about dealing with loneliness, and about doing things I never thought I could, and about goodbyes.

If there are two moments that best represent my journey, I guess they are the beginning and the end. I remember standing at Cape Reinga, about to set off, excited but apprehensive, not knowing what was ahead or if I could do it. And I remember walking up to the plaque by the sea at Island Bay, and touching it, and sitting down, and bursting into tears. There was plenty of scenery in between, some beautiful and some arduous. But I guess the TA for me was about my inner journey, even more than it was about the physical one.

It will be good to stop. Maybe next summer I'll spend time with Paul, or enjoy some shorter hikes. But I'll remember the TA, and I'll think about it often. This blog took a lot of time to write over the last few years, mostly from inside my little tent, but I'm so glad I did. It will be good to read back over it, and remember, and remind myself both of what I did and what I am able to do. And yes, I'll probably have a little cry again.

I also have my music. Now I'm back in civilization, I must see if I can put together my definitive Spotify TA Playlist. My musical choices are always a good insight into my inner world, so this would be as good a way as any to represent my inner TA journey. But if there is one song that captures the TA for me above all others, it is the very first one - Supertramp's Two of Us (the Live in Paris version!):

            Look at me, I'm a speck of sand
            And I'm building dreams in a strangers land

            Tell me, why do I care?

            Tell me, why do I care?

            Every time that I'm feelin' down
            Well they pick me up and they spin me round
            Tell me, where do we go
            Tell me, where do we go from here?

            When is man gonna find out
            When are we gonna find out
            What the universe
            Is just waiting to hear?

            Just as long as there's two of us
            Just as long as there's two of us
            Just as long as there's two of us
            We'll carry on

OK, don't get me started. I'm going to sign off now. Thank you so much to all who have been following this blog over recent years. My Te Araroa journey has been a very solitary and frequently lonely adventure, and my connection to the people I care about has been mostly through this blog. Knowing that I wasn't alone was so important. 

Time to get back to the real world. Goodbye, Te Araroa. And, thank you.

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Chilling in Welly

My roommate arrived at 2am, off the last flight from Oz. She left at 6am, on the first flight for Nelson. Despite that, I had a good sleep.

Wellington is a great city. The air felt fresher and the colours brighter than normal - but that was more about me today than Wellington, I think. I spent the morning just meandering around - it’s good to not be following a route, or carrying a pack. I had a coffee on Courtenay Place and worked on my blog; looked for a place to dispose of my gas canister; browsed the books at Arty Bees; checked out Cuba Mall. But really, there are only three things I have to do today.

Beer #1: Rogue & Vagabond. Cheers, TA.

Beer #2: Little Beer Quarter. Thanks, TA.

Beer #3: Hashigo Zake. Goodbye, TA.

It’s hard to believe that tomorrow I’ll be on the plane back home to the real world. Today has been very laid back and a bit surreal, and I still need a bit more time to process things, I think. I’ll do a final post in a couple of days, with my final reflections on my Te Araroa experience. For now, I’ll just enjoy my last beer of the TA. Cheers! 🍻

Day 81: Ngaio to Island Bay (24km, 8.5 hours)

Jane told me this morning about the French mastiffs (dogues de Bordeaux) she used to own, brother and sister. The brother died several years ago, and the sister was pining without him. In the end she was adopted by a friend of Jane’s up the Kapiti coast, and now runs happily every day on the beach. 

An image of a lonely dog running free and living its best life. I burst into tears over my granola. Oh dear, it might be one of those days.

Jane and Wink. Jane, you’re a legend - thanks for taking in a complete stranger. 

At 9am Jane dropped me back to the street corner where she picked me up yesterday, and I waved as she drove off. It’s just me again. Time to get going.

Deep breath. Off we go, for the last time

The route today was mostly trail walking - surprising as I was headed through central Wellington. Plenty of hills too - though perhaps that’s not such a surprise. There were many criss-crossing trails, not much TA signage, and my GPS location on my phone was rather unreliable today. So I needed to rely a lot on intuition and my TA notes. The route meandered under trees through Trelissick Park, before popping out into some very steep streets before leading to Te Ahumairangi Park. It was hot and dry, the route was hilly, and I was in trudge mode - the end was in sight (well, figuratively).

10am pic: Photos are hopeless at showing steepness. This road was STEEP. 

Views of Wellington harbour from Te Ahumairangi Park walkway. I can see cruise liners and the arena.

Getting close to the city centre now

After several hours the trail popped out in the Wellington Botanical Gardens, where the cable car leaves, right on the edge of the city centre. It wasn’t long before I was joining the throngs on Lampton Quay, feeling very out of place with my hiking poles and sweaty shirt. 

Stopping for a rest in the Botanical Gardens

Great shot of the cable car (see previous comment about steepness)

Which way do I go now? Let’s try this way

Past the Rose Gardens…

I’m in the city! 

Lampton Quay

John Plimmer and his dog Fritz. I walked through Plimmerton 2 days ago!

I ended up on the waterfront, walking along Jervois Quay. I’m booked in to the YHA, which is close to the trail near Te Papa and Oriental Parade.

Jervois Quay

Where am I?

Major renovations happening at the YHA

I finally reached the hostel at about 12:30pm, and checked in to my little 2-person dorm (no sign of anyone else sharing the room - maybe I’ll have it to myself?). But, this is not the end. I still had another 12km to go, to reach Island Bay south of the city where the TA trail officially ends. I’m going to continue there today, pack and all. Well not quite all - I offloaded my excess food in the dorm room to lighten the weight a bit. But my tent, sleeping bag and mattress etc have been with me every inch from the start, they are going to stay with me to the end. 

Off again, for the final push. Well, after stopping in Oriental Parade for lunch first.

Scrambled eggs and an iced mocha at Stay Lola cafe. I’m sure I’ve been here before with you Paul

Carrying on down Oriental Parade

Looking back at the city

The route followed the waterfront for another kilometre or so, before branching uphill onto Mt Victoria. Once again, hills. Not as gut-busting as the ones yesterday, but it was a slow uphill plod until I got to the summit.

Views from Mt Victoria Lookout

I can see the Airport, and the Wellywood sign

Jane’s place is up on those hills.

One of the few pics of me that’s not a selfie!

Up, down, the trail continued - along some mountain bike tracks for several hours, in the rough direction of the airport. I passed the back of the Wellington Zoo, headed up and over Mt Albert, and finally started descending to the coast.

Passing behind Wellington Zoo. There are lemurs in that enclosure

Getting further away from the city

Looking south from Mt Albert. Almost the the end…

Endings are always hard, as I’ve noted many times along the TA. I was feeling rather conflicted as I plodded along. On one hand I was eager to reach the end of the North Island. On the other hand, this TA adventure has been a big part of my life recently, and it was about to come to an end. I think I said some of my emotional goodbyes to the TA yesterday, while hiking up Mt Kaukau - but I still had a lump in my throat as I headed down to the final coast. In my mind this afternoon I’d been alternating bizarrely between Preaching The End of The World (Chris Cornell), and Follow The Yellow Brick Road (Judy Garland). But, maybe not so bizarre. They captured my conflicting moods perfectly.

The trail this afternoon seemed to last forever. Finally I was on the coast, walking along the esplanade to Island Bay. I knew there was a rock or plaque that marked the official end of the TA - but I had no idea where is was, and my notes were rather vague. I plodded along and hoped I hadn’t missed it. 

Passing along Island Bay beach

Finally, I reached a little park in Island Bay. My app shows the trail heading out to sea from here. I hunted around for a while, and eventually found the marker in a corner of the park.

It was a strange combination of relief and sadness, to finally reach the end. I sat for a while with a tear in my eye and a lump in my throat. Then I FaceTimed Paul, and phoned Mum and Dad. I needed to talk to someone, at the end.

Finally

Having a wee moment

The weather was hot, the sea looked inviting. Having a swim to wash off the sweat from the TA seemed like a very fitting way to mark the end. 

It was bone-chillingly cold. But so worth it

What now? I guess I needed to get back to Wellington. There’s no way I’m going to walk. So I found a bus heading back to town. 

Travelling back in style. The driver’s cash till was broken, he let me travel for free 

It was 6:30pm when I made it back to the YHA. I unpacked, showered, and headed out for a meal. An Indian restaurant was 10m away, I didn’t want to work any further than that!

Getting ready to do battle with the biggest onion bhajis I’ve ever seen

Back in my little room

Well, I’m at the end of the North Island, and probably of my TA adventure. 1715km from that day I set off from Cape Reinga. I haven’t processed my thoughts and feelings about all this yet, I’ll need a few more days I think to make sense of things. I’m relieved, and happy, and sad, to have finally made it all this way. 

What a day. Time for some sleep.

Today’s route

Day 80: Porirua to Ngaio (21km, 8 hours)

Flat grass was hard to find in the tent area at Camp Elsdon. My tent was on a slight slope, so my mattress and I kept sliding to the end all night. Though I still managed to get some reasonable sleep.

When I turned my phone on in the morning to check the time, it randomly threw up this pic: 

December 2020. My first day on the TA, starting out from Cape Reinga. Rocking a goofy sunhat

I remember taking the photo, and feeling scared, and exhilarated. I couldn’t imagine then being where I am now. So much has happened since. 

I had a little cry in my tent, thinking back to the start of this adventure, and ahead to what may soon be the end of it.

I realised too that last night will be the last time I’ll sleep in a tent on this trip, and possibly ever on the TA. I was very mindful of that as I went through my camp-dismantling routine - deflating the sleeping mat, rolling up the sleeping bag, dismantling the tent, and packing the backpack.

Before…

…and after. 

After a few deep breaths, I headed off, at about 7:30am. It was another beautiful day. I thought of Perfect Day by Lou Reed (no Paul, not the dance remix!).

The route today was going to take me up a bush track to a lookout point on the highest hill in Porirua, Colonial Knob. I knew it would be a bit steep, but no-one told me there would be almost 800 stairs! My shirt was drenched with sweat and I was pooped by the time I reached the lookout. The views from the lookout however were stunning.

Another attempt at a panoramic shot

Looking West to sea

Looking North to Porirua and the Tararuas

Time for breakfast while admiring the view

The Colonial Knob Lookout

Heading on down the trail, I was surprised to find I was still going uphill. Eventually I realised that the lookout was only a stop along the way - Colonial Knob itself was still further away, and even higher! The steepness continued, although at least there were no more steps - and the views got better and better as I carried on.

The Lookout is now just a tiny speck in the distance

More views out to sea…

…and over Porirua…

…and of the trail ahead.

Finally, at the highest point

The South Island seems very close from here

Eventually it was time to start descending - down the hills, through a pine forest, and eventually onto a quiet road.

Over hilly farmland (with the occasional cow)

10am pic: Passing through the Spicer Forest

Sitting in The Dschungel. (Actually I just stopped on the side of the road for a snack. Tuna and crackers)

After 6km of road walking, the path once again started steadily uphill. This time I was headed up another hilltop walkway to Mt Kaukau, on the edge of Wellington city.

Stopping on a seat for a while, watching the wind turbines

My destination

Plodding steadily uphill, I started thinking again about that naive photo from my first day. It brought back so many memories of the last few years on the TA. I thought of my hopes and expectations on that first day. I thought of my very first TA song, Supertramp’s Two of Us*. I thought of life, and the passing of time, and loneliness, and doing things I never thought I could, and goodbyes.

I ended up bawling my eyes out for a while. It was a pretty big weep.

Back to plodding uphill. Finally, I was at the top of Mt Kaukau. Again, such amazing views!

I made it!

If the television tower looks like it’s had a haircut, it has. Apparently it lost its antenna a few years ago in an accident with a helicopter.

My first glimpse of Wellington!

The South Island is getting closer…

They say you can’t beat Wellington on a sunny day. They may be right!

Heading down the hill, the views kept on coming. The wind on the exposed ridge started picking up too however. After another half hour I turned down a steep track, which eventually exited in the suburb of Ngaio. 

About to head down to Ngaio

One last look at the South Island…

Tonight I’m staying with Jane, who lives just a few kilometres from Ngaio. Jane is a good friend of Adele (Janet’s daughter, from Whanganui) - that night I spent in Whanganui back on Dec 27, Adele gave me Jane’s number. Jane very kindly picked me up from Ngaio, fed and watered me, and gave me a lovely bed for the evening. Jane, you are a star - thanks so much for going out of your way to welcome a complete stranger! When I’ve been alone for several weeks kindnesses like this mean so much, I really appreciate it.

I’ve had a lovely evening with Jane, son Dylan and neighbour John (and dogs Wink and Lucy), and right now I’m in bed finishing off my blog. It’s been a big day, more tiring than expected with all the hills. Time for my beauty sleep. Tomorrow, I’ll reach central Wellington. My TA is almost over.

Today’s route

*The live version of course, off their Live in Paris album