Monday, January 8, 2024

Day 80: Porirua to Ngaio (21km, 8 hours)

Flat grass was hard to find in the tent area at Camp Elsdon. My tent was on a slight slope, so my mattress and I kept sliding to the end all night. Though I still managed to get some reasonable sleep.

When I turned my phone on in the morning to check the time, it randomly threw up this pic: 

December 2020. My first day on the TA, starting out from Cape Reinga. Rocking a goofy sunhat

I remember taking the photo, and feeling scared, and exhilarated. I couldn’t imagine then being where I am now. So much has happened since. 

I had a little cry in my tent, thinking back to the start of this adventure, and ahead to what may soon be the end of it.

I realised too that last night will be the last time I’ll sleep in a tent on this trip, and possibly ever on the TA. I was very mindful of that as I went through my camp-dismantling routine - deflating the sleeping mat, rolling up the sleeping bag, dismantling the tent, and packing the backpack.

Before…

…and after. 

After a few deep breaths, I headed off, at about 7:30am. It was another beautiful day. I thought of Perfect Day by Lou Reed (no Paul, not the dance remix!).

The route today was going to take me up a bush track to a lookout point on the highest hill in Porirua, Colonial Knob. I knew it would be a bit steep, but no-one told me there would be almost 800 stairs! My shirt was drenched with sweat and I was pooped by the time I reached the lookout. The views from the lookout however were stunning.


Another attempt at a panoramic shot

Looking West to sea

Looking North to Porirua and the Tararuas

Time for breakfast while admiring the view

The Colonial Knob Lookout

Heading on down the trail, I was surprised to find I was still going uphill. Eventually I realised that the lookout was only a stop along the way - Colonial Knob itself was still further away, and even higher! The steepness continued, although at least there were no more steps - and the views got better and better as I carried on.

The Lookout is now just a tiny speck in the distance

More views out to sea…

…and over Porirua…

…and of the trail ahead.

Finally, at the highest point

The South Island seems very close from here

Eventually it was time to start descending - down the hills, through a pine forest, and eventually onto a quiet road.

Over hilly farmland (with the occasional cow)

10am pic: Passing through the Spicer Forest

Sitting in The Dschungel. (Actually I just stopped on the side of the road for a snack. Tuna and crackers)

After 6km of road walking, the path once again started steadily uphill. This time I was headed up another hilltop walkway to Mt Kaukau, on the edge of Wellington city.

Stopping on a seat for a while, watching the wind turbines

My destination

Plodding steadily uphill, I started thinking again about that naive photo from my first day. It brought back so many memories of the last few years on the TA. I thought of my hopes and expectations on that first day. I thought of my very first TA song, Supertramp’s Two of Us*. I thought of life, and the passing of time, and loneliness, and doing things I never thought I could, and goodbyes.

I ended up bawling my eyes out for a while. It was a pretty big weep.

Back to plodding uphill. Finally, I was at the top of Mt Kaukau. Again, such amazing views!

I made it!

If the television tower looks like it’s had a haircut, it has. Apparently it lost its antenna a few years ago in an accident with a helicopter.

My first glimpse of Wellington!

The South Island is getting closer…

They say you can’t beat Wellington on a sunny day. They may be right!

Heading down the hill, the views kept on coming. The wind on the exposed ridge started picking up too however. After another half hour I turned down a steep track, which eventually exited in the suburb of Ngaio. 

About to head down to Ngaio

One last look at the South Island…

Tonight I’m staying with Jane, who lives just a few kilometres from Ngaio. Jane is a good friend of Adele (Janet’s daughter, from Whanganui) - that night I spent in Whanganui back on Dec 27, Adele gave me Jane’s number. Jane very kindly picked me up from Ngaio, fed and watered me, and gave me a lovely bed for the evening. Jane, you are a star - thanks so much for going out of your way to welcome a complete stranger! When I’ve been alone for several weeks kindnesses like this mean so much, I really appreciate it.

I’ve had a lovely evening with Jane, son Dylan and neighbour John (and dogs Wink and Lucy), and right now I’m in bed finishing off my blog. It’s been a big day, more tiring than expected with all the hills. Time for my beauty sleep. Tomorrow, I’ll reach central Wellington. My TA is almost over.

Today’s route

*The live version of course, off their Live in Paris album

2 comments:

  1. Had forgotten about your sun hat, if it was a slightly different shape you could have been Sister Bertrill (unsure of the spelling) doppelgänger a la Sally Field from the TV show The Flying Nun. I can hear the craft beers chilling as I type this. FaceTime tonight, and you will soon be FaceTime in person. Youv’e done exceptionally well this TA, coping with some extra challenges. Love you heaps. XXX

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    1. Yes it was a serious fashion disaster. Almost at the finish line now! xx

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