Day 81: Ngaio to Island Bay (24km, 8.5 hours)

Jane told me this morning about the French mastiffs (dogues de Bordeaux) she used to own, brother and sister. The brother died several years ago, and the sister was pining without him. In the end she was adopted by a friend of Jane’s up the Kapiti coast, and now runs happily every day on the beach. 

An image of a lonely dog running free and living its best life. I burst into tears over my granola. Oh dear, it might be one of those days.

Jane and Wink. Jane, you’re a legend - thanks for taking in a complete stranger. 

At 9am Jane dropped me back to the street corner where she picked me up yesterday, and I waved as she drove off. It’s just me again. Time to get going.

Deep breath. Off we go, for the last time

The route today was mostly trail walking - surprising as I was headed through central Wellington. Plenty of hills too - though perhaps that’s not such a surprise. There were many criss-crossing trails, not much TA signage, and my GPS location on my phone was rather unreliable today. So I needed to rely a lot on intuition and my TA notes. The route meandered under trees through Trelissick Park, before popping out into some very steep streets before leading to Te Ahumairangi Park. It was hot and dry, the route was hilly, and I was in trudge mode - the end was in sight (well, figuratively).

10am pic: Photos are hopeless at showing steepness. This road was STEEP. 

Views of Wellington harbour from Te Ahumairangi Park walkway. I can see cruise liners and the arena.

Getting close to the city centre now

After several hours the trail popped out in the Wellington Botanical Gardens, where the cable car leaves, right on the edge of the city centre. It wasn’t long before I was joining the throngs on Lampton Quay, feeling very out of place with my hiking poles and sweaty shirt. 

Stopping for a rest in the Botanical Gardens

Great shot of the cable car (see previous comment about steepness)

Which way do I go now? Let’s try this way

Past the Rose Gardens…

I’m in the city! 

Lampton Quay

John Plimmer and his dog Fritz. I walked through Plimmerton 2 days ago!

I ended up on the waterfront, walking along Jervois Quay. I’m booked in to the YHA, which is close to the trail near Te Papa and Oriental Parade.

Jervois Quay

Where am I?

Major renovations happening at the YHA

I finally reached the hostel at about 12:30pm, and checked in to my little 2-person dorm (no sign of anyone else sharing the room - maybe I’ll have it to myself?). But, this is not the end. I still had another 12km to go, to reach Island Bay south of the city where the TA trail officially ends. I’m going to continue there today, pack and all. Well not quite all - I offloaded my excess food in the dorm room to lighten the weight a bit. But my tent, sleeping bag and mattress etc have been with me every inch from the start, they are going to stay with me to the end. 

Off again, for the final push. Well, after stopping in Oriental Parade for lunch first.

Scrambled eggs and an iced mocha at Stay Lola cafe. I’m sure I’ve been here before with you Paul

Carrying on down Oriental Parade

Looking back at the city

The route followed the waterfront for another kilometre or so, before branching uphill onto Mt Victoria. Once again, hills. Not as gut-busting as the ones yesterday, but it was a slow uphill plod until I got to the summit.

Views from Mt Victoria Lookout

I can see the Airport, and the Wellywood sign

Jane’s place is up on those hills.

One of the few pics of me that’s not a selfie!

Up, down, the trail continued - along some mountain bike tracks for several hours, in the rough direction of the airport. I passed the back of the Wellington Zoo, headed up and over Mt Albert, and finally started descending to the coast.

Passing behind Wellington Zoo. There are lemurs in that enclosure

Getting further away from the city

Looking south from Mt Albert. Almost the the end…

Endings are always hard, as I’ve noted many times along the TA. I was feeling rather conflicted as I plodded along. On one hand I was eager to reach the end of the North Island. On the other hand, this TA adventure has been a big part of my life recently, and it was about to come to an end. I think I said some of my emotional goodbyes to the TA yesterday, while hiking up Mt Kaukau - but I still had a lump in my throat as I headed down to the final coast. In my mind this afternoon I’d been alternating bizarrely between Preaching The End of The World (Chris Cornell), and Follow The Yellow Brick Road (Judy Garland). But, maybe not so bizarre. They captured my conflicting moods perfectly.

The trail this afternoon seemed to last forever. Finally I was on the coast, walking along the esplanade to Island Bay. I knew there was a rock or plaque that marked the official end of the TA - but I had no idea where is was, and my notes were rather vague. I plodded along and hoped I hadn’t missed it. 

Passing along Island Bay beach

Finally, I reached a little park in Island Bay. My app shows the trail heading out to sea from here. I hunted around for a while, and eventually found the marker in a corner of the park.

It was a strange combination of relief and sadness, to finally reach the end. I sat for a while with a tear in my eye and a lump in my throat. Then I FaceTimed Paul, and phoned Mum and Dad. I needed to talk to someone, at the end.

Finally

Having a wee moment

The weather was hot, the sea looked inviting. Having a swim to wash off the sweat from the TA seemed like a very fitting way to mark the end. 

It was bone-chillingly cold. But so worth it

What now? I guess I needed to get back to Wellington. There’s no way I’m going to walk. So I found a bus heading back to town. 

Travelling back in style. The driver’s cash till was broken, he let me travel for free 

It was 6:30pm when I made it back to the YHA. I unpacked, showered, and headed out for a meal. An Indian restaurant was 10m away, I didn’t want to work any further than that!

Getting ready to do battle with the biggest onion bhajis I’ve ever seen

Back in my little room

Well, I’m at the end of the North Island, and probably of my TA adventure. 1715km from that day I set off from Cape Reinga. I haven’t processed my thoughts and feelings about all this yet, I’ll need a few more days I think to make sense of things. I’m relieved, and happy, and sad, to have finally made it all this way. 

What a day. Time for some sleep.

Today’s route