Day 18: Ocean Beach to Ruakaka Beach (26km, 10.5 hours)

I decided to head off before 6am today. I knew there was a seriously big hike over the Whangarei Heads, and then I had to walk around the coast to be at Reotahi by 3pm, to catch a water taxi across the harbour to Ruakaka beach. So it was going to be a big day. And I was really looking forward to getting to Tom and Blair’s place by the end of today!

The Te Whara trail goes steeply uphill over the Whangarei Heads, then across the ridge before descending in the other side. And sure enough, there was well over an hour of gut-busting uphill to get to the top. I was panting and sweating by the time I made it.

Looking down at Ocean Beach in the early morning.

Climbing up the Te Whara trail

So many stairs!

My final view of Ocean Beach.

The highest point is the rock on top of Bream Head. It can be climbed, but I was too nervous to do it - even looking at it gave me vertigo.

The rock at the top of Bream Head. I chickened out of climbing it.

Heading over Whangarei Heads, with Ruakaka beach in the background.

More amazing views!

The trail continued to follow the ridge steeply up and down, for several more exhausting hours.

I need food!

Eventually it started heading downhill. I passed a day hiker coming the other way, who informed me there were 1200 stairs to walk down. Ouch!

10am pic. Oh no, more stairs! But at least they are going down.

Eventually I made it to the bottom, with aching knees. The trail over the heads had taken about 5 hours, which actually was better than I expected - I was ahead of schedule.

Several more hours of walking around the coastal roads, and I was in Reotahi where the water taxi leaves from to cross the harbour. Blair the water taxi skipper (no, not the Blair I’m staying with tonight!) was kind enough to meet me early, at 1pm, to take me across to the Marsden Point oil refinery at the top of Ruakaka beach.

On the water taxi from Reotahi to Marsden Point.

Thanks Blair!

It was then a 12km hike down the beach to Ruakaka where Tom and Blair’s place is. My feet were sore by this point, but all I was thinking of was getting there.

I need to rest the feet! And may as well finish my salami and cheese.

There was one last hurdle - just before Tom and Blair’s place is Ruakaka river and estuary, which can only be forded at low tide. Luckily I was making good time, and managed to get there just after 4pm when the tide was low. I waded across in bare feet, the water was only mid-thigh deep.

Looking back down the beach. That peak on the right is where I’ve come from today!

Because of my muddy feet I put my jandals on, and staggered on for the last few hundred metres to Tom and Blair’s. And I had my head down so was totally surprised when Paul appeared to meet me (he’d been hiding in wait)! It was such a relief to see him, after 18 days on the trail.

The moment I saw Paul.

The boys’ place was just around the corner. I’d been so looking forward to getting here, finally I made it.

Tom and Blair - thanks so much for having me drop in guys!

Me and Paul 💕

Time to rest up, rehydrate, enjoy a shower and a comfy bed, and spend time with Tom, Blair, Paul and Rocco. Rest day tomorrow!