Day 21: Waipu Cove to Mangawhai (27km, 9.5 hours)

No thunderstorms overnight, though maybe there was more light rain (or a very heavy dew), as the grass and my tent cover were drenched.

I was on the road just after 6am. The camp is about 20mins from where I left the trail, so I rejoined by 6:30.

The song going round in my mind today was “Where are we now?”, a later one by David Bowie. The title is pretty apt - but the song is about remembering the past, and I was thinking about where I’ve been over the last 20 days. It seems so long ago that I was starting down 90 Mile Beach. 

The route today started on a road uphill - 7km uphill, towards Brynderwyn. It changed gradually from tarsealed to gravel, to forestry road, and eventually became a forest trail, skirting the Brynderwyn forest and heading east. There were a number of ups and downs, but the trail was reasonable and so they were tiring but not too hard. There were occasional great views looking down over Langs Beach, and back to Ruakaka and the Whangarei Heads.

Views out to sea.

Looking back down Ruakaka Beach

My 10am pic: drinks break, standing on a lone picnic table at the top of a hill

By 10:30 the Langsview track finished back on a main road. It was a short walk over to the next section, a gravel road leading to a route cutting through private farmland. The farmer Robert stopped by in his ute and we had a long chat. 

The route goes over stiles, through gates and across paddocks. There were several points where I couldn’t see the next orange marker - once again thank goodness for my TA app, which multiple times pointed me in the right direction.

OK, I found an orange pole. Now where do I go?

The farm route cuts over Bream Tail (the other end of the bay that began with Bream Head three days ago), and links with the cliff walkway to Mangawhai Heads. The sun was searing now, but the views of the sea were absolutely stunning - probably the best views of the trip so far. 

The water was beautiful and clear. Look carefully and you might make out a couple skinny dipping with their dog.

Walking down to Mangawhai Heads beach.

By now it was very hot - I was sweltering, and wishing I still had my floppy sun hat from 90 Mile Beach. I walked the last kilometre or so along the beach before heading back by road through Mangawhai Heads town, and then 4km further to Mangawhai village.

Lunch from a bakery at Mangawhai Heads

Finally I arrived in Mangawhai, and found my accommodation for the night. Mark and Kerry are ex-TA walkers who have set up a campsite with a mini cottage, in a little orchard, for other TA walkers to stay in. I was the only one there today, so I had the cottage to myself.

My home tonight

They came over later to introduce themselves and welcome me with a bottle of beer, which was lovely. It was good to chat about the trail - what I’ve done, and what’s coming up. Thanks so much for your hospitality Mark and Kerry, this has been a lovely little oasis after a long hot day.

Later I walked another kilometre to the Mangawhai Tavern, for dinner. I stocked up at the local Four Square on the way home - I’m not sure what resupply points are coming up in the next few days.

Of course, I had to try a beer too

Somehow during the day my good left leg seems to have developed a little shin niggle very much like the one I had on my right leg for the first part of this trip, so I’ve been resting it up since getting back to my cottage - I’ve just been dozing and writing my blog. Hopefully it will improve overnight, I don’t want to put up with that again for the last part of my hike. 

I’m at 443km today. I’ve passed the three quarters mark! 

PS for Mum and Dad: Shortly after meeting the farmer today, I also met a couple doing a day walk along the same route, and we stopped for a second chat. He was on the board of trustees at Orewa College, but I forgot to ask his name or check if he knows you. Looking at the Orewa College website, I think he might be BOT member Tony Shears. Anyone you know?