Day 24: Pakiri to Govan Wilson Rd (13km, 7.5 hours)

I had a strange dream during the night that I was a secret agent. It involved intelligent super-string (??). And I had a backpack that I was always repacking. Very weird.

I was off just after 6am, and glad to see the back of the holiday camp. The shin seemed OK as I walked the few kilometres to Pakiri.

A few other turkeys out early in Pakiri.

Matakana Valley Rd - that’s where I’m going. But I have to go over a mountain to get there.

Today’s route goes over Mt Tamahunga, and ends up somewhere south of Whangaripo. After crossing a stile at the start of the track, it started by going steeply up through farmland, following a fence line for over an hour to get to a ridge.

I noticed today right from the start I was feeling quite weary. I think it’s an accumulation of exhaustion from the whole trip. And mentally too - there’s a sense that while I’ve got my sights on home, it doesn’t feel like it’s getting much closer (just like the last day on 90 Mile Beach).

Feeling pretty weary today. And so far it’s all been uphill.

“Climb Every Mountain” from The Sound of Music was going through my head - I really wasn’t feeling it, but it kept coming back.

Already quite a way above sea level

Eventually the trail reached a ridge, under bush cover. There were steep ups and downs, and I was feeling tired and drenched, even though it was a cool day. With every step it seemed there was another face full of cobwebs. There was even rock-climbing!

You want me to climb WHAT? Well, at least someone left a rope.

It seemed bizarrely that it was show tunes day - I was now singing “Those Canaan Days” from Joseph (“where diiiid zey gooo” - I remembered every word). But I really wasn’t in the mood. Thinking of show tunes, when you’re weary and not in the mood to sing them. Isn’t it ironic. (Which got me singing Alanis Morisette instead, probably much more appropriate).

Getting near the top...

Finally after another relentless uphill clamber that seemed to go on forever, I reached the summit of Mt Tamahunga. Conveniently, there was a heli pad there - perfect place for a break.

10am pic: rest stop at the top of Mt Tamahunga

That perked me up a bit, as did the idea that I was going to be going downhill now. So, down I went, following the orange markers - still steep and hard on the knees, but an improvement on the last three hours of largely uphill grind.

A fresh-looking family passed me asking if they were halfway to the top yet. Something seemed odd. I checked my TA app to see how far I still had to go - and found I was on completely the wrong trail! I should be going west, but for the last 40 minutes I’d been going south!

So, it was back uphill for the next 40 minutes. A wrong turn, when you’re already tired. Isn’t it ironic (thanks Alanis). Arrrrgh!

Coming back to the top of Mt Tamahunga an hour and a half later, after realising I took a wrong turn. D’oh!

It turns out there was a sign, which I should have paid more attention to, pointing down an alternate and very overgrown path east. So, back on the real trail now. Two more hours of clambering, mostly down through bush and then across a swampy gully, before popping out exhausted near Govan Wilson Rd.

I’d previously texted Karen, a few kilometres down the road, about a place to camp for the night. She had recently stopped hosting TA walkers (got tired of cleaning up after some of them), but she kindly said she would make space for me. I arrived to find her, husband Hamish and daughter Isla cleaning out the little sleepout they used to offer TA travellers. She very kindly made me a cup of tea, offered me a shower in their house, and a bed in the sleepout. She even brought up some dinner later. 

Tonight’s accommodation. I don’t have to camp!

Looking over the road, you can see Kawau on the left, and Rangitoto on the right.

The view from the sleepout. I can still see those Whangarei Heads!

Karen, delivering dinner. You’ve been so generous!

Karen, thank you so much - I was feeling a bit down today, but your welcome really helped to perk me up. Your generosity and your hospitality has been really unexpected, and quite touching. And you didn’t even want a koha. Like I’ve said, it’s the kindness of strangers that has been one of the highlights of this adventure, for me. Although Karen, I have to say you don’t feel like a stranger! 

Off to bed 

After dinner, it was off to bed, listening to the ducks and the patter of rain on the roof. Oh no - rain! Paul said there was wet weather coming - it could be a damp day tomorrow. 

PS: Have I mentioned my shin yet? No! It coped remarkably well today. I was worried about how it would go on the rough terrain, but it coped remarkably well. I think that problem is sorted!🤞