Reflections 2

Time flies! (also, the Porcupine Tree song). It’s already been over three days now since I arrived back, and it's felt rather surreal. One moment I was hiking into Te Kuiti, the next I was back home! It's felt like a rather abrupt end to my trip, and it's hard to believe that a few days ago I was still on the Te Araroa.

It was lovely seeing Paul and Rocco again, and settling back in to the comforts of home.  A day or so after I arrived home, Paul was off on a prearranged trip to see friends Darryl and Mark in Nelson, so Rocco and I have had the place to ourselves for the last couple of days. I've been taking my time, slowly unpacking and finding homes for everything; mailing my rented Personal Locator Beacon back to Trek 'n' Travel in Hamilton; and chipping away at completing my blog.

The unpacking ritual

Goodbye, PLB!

My memory of the last few weeks is already fading, so it's good to be able to read over this blog and remind myself of what I've done and where I've been. I notice though that this blog has been unusually light on maths so far, so I think it's time to correct that now.  Here is a summary of my trip, in numbers:

• 15: days on the road (though that includes the rest day in Hamilton).
• 292: km walked (limped, clambered, etc). In fact with detours and diversions it would be well over 300km - but my TA app tells me I am now officially 292km further down the trail.
• 5: TA walkers sighted. Much fewer than I was expecting. 4 going north (Emma, Graham, Rob and Wendy); 1 going south (Dan)
• 90: minutes walking in the company of others - with Paul as I left home on the first day, with Zoe in Papakura, and with Rosie's clan on Pirongia. The rest was just me. But, I like it that way.  
• 3: slightly illegal rough camps (Botanic Gardens, Mt William trig point, Honikiwi airstrip). 
• 2: kg lost. Is that all?
• 2: potentially major mistakes (lost my cards in Mercer, and lost my way in Pirongia). All ended well, mainly due to luck.  
• 888: km in total travelled down the TA so far, since I started last year in Cape Reinga.
• 2112: more km to go! (it's exactly 3000 km to Bluff).

I wondered, before starting out, if this trip would feel different from the previous one. And yes, I guess it has. Walking away from home, past places that were familiar, and seeing Paul daily to start with, I didn't feel as remote and isolated as I did at Cape Reinga. And with no definitive end, I felt able to decide to finish up when I wanted, rather than having to slog on to reach a particular goal. 

Also, I guess there wasn't as much breathtaking scenery this time - a lot of roads, forests, hills and farms. But for me it's not only about the scenery - it's about the challenge of doing something I'm slightly scared of doing. And I do have my moments along the way. Dad asked if there were a couple of moments that stood out for me - and yes, there were. Having a beer in the garden at the Backyard Bar in Whatawhata was one - an unexpectedly happy moment. And, sitting on the bank of the Moakurarua Stream on my second to last day was the other; just watching the stream, and having a cry. I said good-bye to the stream afterwards - but maybe I was also unconsciously saying goodbye to this leg of my big adventure.

I do wonder if I should have continued on for another week through the Pureora forest to Taumaranui - but the timing felt right to stop, even though it was a fairly quick decision. The last 15 days feel like a real achievement for me, and I'm satisfied with that. And I know what will be ahead if I do decide to rejoin the Te Araroa in the future. Will it happen? I'd like to think, yes it will.

Cheers, TA. We'll meet again some day...

Day 44: Waitomo to Te Kuiti (16 km, 8 hours). Plus a bit more…

Well, I’ve covered a few more kilometres today than I was expecting.

I had a fairly restless sleep last night in my tent at the holiday park. Mostly my mistake - I’d set the tent up on a very slight incline, so was constantly sliding to one side. But I couldn’t be bothered getting up and turning the tent around.

Also, I was thinking a lot about my upcoming decision - where to end this TA adventure. I’d realised that Tongariro was probably unrealistic - I probably wouldn’t make it there in time for my hut booking, and if I tried it meant I wouldn’t be home to be with Paul when he has his operation on the 21st. So realistically the only places I could consider finishing would be Te Kuiti (my destination today), or Taumaranui (after another 7 days getting through the Pureora forest). I had no clear idea about which to choose.

It was threatening to drizzle as I packed up in the morning, and finally started to rain lightly the exact moment I was leaving at 7am. I waited 10 minutes and most of it passed - just enough to leave me a bit moist, and the ground rather wet.

I was off through hilly farmland. My shoes were instantly soaked with the wet grass.

Leaving Waitomo 

I had to navigate past several groups of young bulls. I’ve knew something was up when they started growling and bellowing - I didn’t know bulls growled! I tried to detour round them, but when they started following me I had to dash to the safety of the next field.

Followed down the hill by a pack of growling bulls.  I hear it’s the young ones that make most of the fuss. Typical.

The first of many electric fences

Yet more bulls. I tried to give them a wide berth. 

Apparently these boulders came from the Mangakino volcanic eruption. 60km away!

Today’s route is mostly through farmland, but there are a several bush-covered ridges to navigate through too, each about 150m high. So the route changed from hunting for orange markers in paddocks, to clambering up and down narrow overgrown trails through steep bush. 

Changing from farmland to narrow bush tracks

Mud and vines, yay.

Most of my shorts were drenched by now as well as my shoes - it’s amazing how much rain water fern fronds can dump on you as you are brushing past! I had the presence of mind to relocate my phone out of harm’s way. This wasn’t helped when it started raining again at 9am. It only lasted 15 minutes, so I waited it out under some trees on my way up a second big ridge.

Sheltering from the rain 

Looking down at farmland from the ridge

I found myself wondering if this was going to be the last day of my hike, and got a bit maudlin’ at the thought. I started singing my theme song, ‘All Sweet Things’, which seemed very appropriate round about now. It felt a little like saying goodbye to the TA, and as with me and goodbyes, left me a bit teary and with a lump in my throat. 

Anyway, I was enjoying the hike today, despite the dampness and hills. Soon I was back down from the ridge and on level ground for a while.

10am pic 1: back on farmland

10am pic 2: looking ahead, my first suspension bridge!

The suspension bridge lead over a stream, through to a small kahikatea (native white pine) wetlands reserve. This was a lovely change of pace - a nice even track through the trees.

A lovely Kahikatea grove 

They grow pretty tall!

More farmland - looking back down at the kahikatea reserve

Back to the farms, I had my first real struggle with navigation today. With no orange markers in sight, I had to rely on my TA app - which was telling me to go straight up a hill through multiple electric fences! I managed to clamber over several, getting an electric shock trying to get over a particularly badly built stile, until I had had enough and just followed a fence in the vague hope it would lead somewhere. Luckily it did - to an orange marker! I was back on track.

A shocking stile. Literally.

The view, while taking a much-needed break.

Still break time… there’s a big hill ahead

I’d noticed my left little toe was getting increasingly painful, and inspecting it during the rest break the nail seemed to be turning a little black. Not good. I’d been trying to shield it as I walked, but that was making progress up- and downhill a bit slower than normal. Ah well, I have plenty of time. 

The final push through to Te Kuiti goes up over several very steep hills to a trig point. So, up I continued to plod.

Watching a farmer in a cart herd hundreds of sheep below

After leading me past another rural airstrip, once again the markers disappeared, and I had to rely only on my app. Which led me straight down a steep hill, over multiple fences, into a big valley of a field - and then told me to climb a fence that couldn’t be climbed, and go through impassable bush. Aaargh! After persevering for a while, I tried my previous strategy of following a fence line and keeping my fingers crossed. And lo, after clambering up the fence line for 10 minutes, there was the orange marker. 

No, TA app! There is no path through this field. Just frustration. So much frustration!

Finally I was back on track, and eventually made it to the trig point.

Ahh, the view from the top

More views…

…and Te Kuiti!

Looking down at Te Kuiti, I think I finally realised that this would be the end of my TA trip today. I could forge ahead and battle with the Puteora forest for the next 7 days… but my toe was sore, and I decided - why not finish on a high and stop here. Today has been a good day, and it felt right.

A final struggle down the hill, limping a bit more now, and I was in civilisation. Well, Te Kuiti. It was about 2pm, and I stopped at the first place that looked like they could provide lunch.

Lunch! A very nice mac n cheese (and ham!)

I had a room in Te Kuiti if I needed it, at a Trail Angel’s house - but I was surprised when I checked the Intercity bus timetable that the bus to Auckland left at 3:45pm. That was only an hour away! I phoned Paul, and decided - I may as well come home tonight.

I quickly booked the ticket, and made my way down Main Street Te Kuiti to the bus stop. There was a tavern and a statue of Colin Meads by the bus stop to keep me amused while I waited.

Me and Colin Meads.

Just because I deserve it. 

Before I knew it I was on the bus, waving goodbye to Te Kuiti and the TA, heading home. It’s over! I really hadn’t had time to process that until now, I was never expecting to be going home today. 

Waiting in Hamilton for a connecting bus

In the bus I’ve been typing up this blog. Once past Hamilton I’ve been recognising the places I hiked through over the last couple of weeks, though in reverse - Hampton Downs, sections of trail near the motorway, Drury…  I’m also listening to All Sweet Things on Paul’s earphones, so I’m feeling a bit teary. Goodbye, TA, for now. But all sweet things will come again…

Tomorrow I’ll get onto completing the previous four blog entries, and probably the day after I’ll post a final wrap-up.  But I’m passing Manukau now - it won’t be long before I’ll be home, so I should post this blog entry and get ready. It’ll be great to see Paul and Rocco again, I’ve missed them!

Today’s route. Not including the trip home.

Day 43: Honikiwi Rd to Waitomo (25km, 9 hours)

The wind died down overnight, but it was cold. I had to wear my fleece for the first time this trip, inside my sleeping bag.

I finished the last of my muesli for breakfast, and was off at 6:30am. The trail was quite varied today - starting out over farmland on an old 4WD route, then veering into tramping tracks through bush, then back on farmland following fencelines, exiting eventually onto a gravel road.

Sunrise from my tent this morning

Starting off down farm trails…

…then tramping tracks through bush…

...looking out for the occasional orange marker...

...along fence lines through farmland... 

...exiting onto a country road.

Walking along today, I was starting to think about where I might want to finish up this leg of my hike. Unlike last summer's hike from Cape Reinga to Auckland, this trip has no definitive end. I'd planned the route as far as Tongariro - but it was dawning on me that I probably wouldn't make it that far, this trip.  I'd probably need a rest day before I got there so wouldn't be able to make it in time for my Tongariro hut booking; but more importantly, Paul has an operation coming up before then, and I'd like to be back in Auckland in time for that. After Te Kuiti tomorrow there’s a long 7-day forest hike through to Taumaranui, so finishing in Taumaranui or even Te Kuiti might be options. It would probably come down to how I was feeling. It's too soon to decide today - but I’ll probably need to make a decision about this during my hike tomorrow.

A few more kilometres later, it was back onto farmland. This time, steeper than ever. The route again followed more fencelines, past another airstrip - this one obviously used more frequently than my campsite, as there were multiple warning signs.

Still 4-5 hours till Waitomo apparently.

More fenceline hiking, some of it rather steep

Some great views. Looking back towards Pirongia (distant left) - I was on that mountain 2 days ago!

10am pic: still more fences! It’s getting hot and there’s a long way to go

After a couple more hours the route veered into bush, which thankfully gave some shade. The path headed downhill for a while, past several wild goats, then followed a small stream.

A sign!

Into the bush

I knew I had to cross the Moakurarua Stream at some point, and sure enough eventually there it was. The water was low and it was barely knee deep, so I took my shoes off and waded gingerly across. 

The Moakurarua Stream

Drying my feet on the other side. Nice tan lines!

It was lovely just sitting by the stream for 15 minutes, waiting for my feet to dry. I haven't had too many 'moments' on this leg of the TA, but this was one - just watching and listening to the water. I can't easily explain why, but tears welled up while I sat there, feeling a strangely deep connection to the stream I'd just crossed. I haven't said 'good-bye' to many places this trip, but after my feet were dry and my shoes were on I made a point of saying good-bye to the stream, and reluctantly continued on down the trail. I had a lump in my throat and a tear in my eye for the next 10 minutes.

There was still a lot of walking ahead, but the trail from this point was not quite as hard as it had been up till now. The trail continued steadily uphill along a horse track, then along forest tracks for several hours - apparently a mountain biking route, though I didn't see any today. 

A (mostly dry) clay track uphill.  It’s been used by horses.

Back into the forest - but the going is easier

A mountain biking trail

Finally, the end of the trail. Waitomo must be close!

There was still over an hour of road walking to go, to get to Waitomo, and it was hot now that I'd left the forest. My little toe was getting increasingly sore, and my fingers were starting to cramp. I hadn't stopped for lunch today - I didn't want to risk my oozy cheese, and couldn't be bothered fishing round in the bottom of my pack for my back-up (tuna). But I did pass a yellow plum tree on the side of the road, so lunch was 5 very nice plums. Finally, I arrived in Waitomo, and saw my destination (a holiday park) ahead. Although I had to pass the Tomo Bar & Eatery to get there, so decided to detour to the bar to reward myself with a beer and some chips.

And I was shouted to a free beer! Rehydrating on beer may not be wise, but it certainly did hit the spot after the last four days.

The holiday park was actually very nice. I was only after a small tent space, but got to use their laundry, showers, and charging room. After setting up the tent, and taking advantage of the facilities, I was feeling much fresher for the first time in days.

Camping under a nice shady tree

My fingers have been cramping all afternoon. Too much sweating?

An oozy mess. Time to ditch the cheese.

And back to the Tomo Bar for a pizza dinner. OK, and another beer.

I had intended to catch up on my last several days of blog entries after dinner, but the last four days were catching up with me. Or maybe it was the beer! I only had enough energy for another brief draft post to say I'd arrived safely, and then it was off to bed.

Today’s route