Day 36: Huntly to Ngaruawahia (20km, 8.5 hours)

A big day today - there’s hills to climb! I was off at 7:30am, walking back to rejoin the trail on the west side of the Waikato.

Walking past Lake Hakanoa (the little lake that the holiday park is named after)

Crossing back to the west side, over the Tainui Bridge - looking north.

Heading south down the west bank. Those hills in the distance are the ones I have to cross today.

There was 5km of road walking downriver before I arrived at the hills. Halfway there I was struck with a desperate need to go to the loo. Was it the extra fruit I ate last night, or the roast pork roll? Anyway after 36 days on the TA trail without having to use my emergency loo paper in the wild, I had to duck down a bank between the road and the river to do my business. I’m not proud.

Looking slightly pained. You… shall not… pass?

Back on track, I made it to the start of the hills. This trail is known as the Hakarimata Walkway. So this is how it’s going to go: there are I’m told 1500 steps up the hill to a lookout; then 6 hours of rough tramping over various ridges and peaks; then another 1500 steps down to Ngaruawahia. Deep breath, let’s do this.

The start of the Hakarimata walkway. 

I lost count - but it certainly felt like 1500!

45 minutes of sweat, panting and frequent pauses later, and I was at the lookout.

Amazing views from the lookout at the top, looking north towards Huntly…

…and south towards Hamilton

Then it was time to turn onto the Hakarimata trail itself. The steps up were part of a well-formed track to the lookout, and I met several people heading up for the exercise and the views. But this next section was very different - a rough narrow tramping track, through bush, up and down a ridge, for 9km, roots always underfoot, signposted by occasional orange markers. There were no other people on this section - I was the only person silly enough to be going this way today.

10am pic: starting along the ridge trail. It seemed innocent at first…

Traipsing along through bush…

But, so many roots, everywhere. So easy to trip or twist an ankle. I was looking at me feet most of the time.

A much-needed rest break. Listening to the cicadas, birds and wind in the trees.

A brief gap in the bush

With the roots underfoot, and the frequent ups and downs and occasional clambering, I seemed to be making very slow progress. After 3-4 hours I was exhausted, and there was still a way to go. It didn’t help when I realised I’d dropped my cap - luckily it was only 5 minutes back down the trail. 

There is is!

Finally I popped out at the end of the trail, at the final lookout. I was relieved, that was over 5 hours of fairly intense tramping.

I made it!

What a view! Looking south over Ngaruawahia.

That’s what I’ve emerged from.

Of course, there were still the steps down the hill to look forward to. Up is tough on the cardio, but I find down is hard on the quads knees and heels.

And down we go…

Yes, I think there were 1500 down as well.

Passing several stands of large kauri trees

Stopping by a stream on the way down

Looking downstream. Maybe a trick of the light, but it looks like an oil painting - amazing colours!

And a waterfall too.

Finally I made it to the bottom, just a short road walk from Ngaruawahia. The route reconnects with the Waikato river, and becomes the Te Awa cycleway - this is going to take me all the way to Hamilton tomorrow. But, not today - I needed to turn off to get to tonight’s campsite.

That’s where I was today!

The Te Awa cycleway.

There is only one place to stay in Ngaruawahia - the Riverbed Motel. They also allow TA trampers to camp on site, and use their toilet and shower facilities. The owners were away and the place seemed closed when I arrived after 4pm, but their son showed me a spot under a lemon tree to set up my tent. 

I’m the only camper today, it seems.

After a shower, it was time to hobble into town on sore feet, and track down some dinner. 

I found an Indian restaurant. Butter chicken!

And, back to my tent after, to do my blog for the day, and think about sleep. Tomorrow will be much easier than today, straight down the cycleway for 20km to Hamilton. And no hills!

Today’s route