Day 44: Waitomo to Te Kuiti (16 km, 8 hours). Plus a bit more…

Well, I’ve covered a few more kilometres today than I was expecting.

I had a fairly restless sleep last night in my tent at the holiday park. Mostly my mistake - I’d set the tent up on a very slight incline, so was constantly sliding to one side. But I couldn’t be bothered getting up and turning the tent around.

Also, I was thinking a lot about my upcoming decision - where to end this TA adventure. I’d realised that Tongariro was probably unrealistic - I probably wouldn’t make it there in time for my hut booking, and if I tried it meant I wouldn’t be home to be with Paul when he has his operation on the 21st. So realistically the only places I could consider finishing would be Te Kuiti (my destination today), or Taumaranui (after another 7 days getting through the Pureora forest). I had no clear idea about which to choose.

It was threatening to drizzle as I packed up in the morning, and finally started to rain lightly the exact moment I was leaving at 7am. I waited 10 minutes and most of it passed - just enough to leave me a bit moist, and the ground rather wet.

I was off through hilly farmland. My shoes were instantly soaked with the wet grass.

Leaving Waitomo 

I had to navigate past several groups of young bulls. I’ve knew something was up when they started growling and bellowing - I didn’t know bulls growled! I tried to detour round them, but when they started following me I had to dash to the safety of the next field.

Followed down the hill by a pack of growling bulls.  I hear it’s the young ones that make most of the fuss. Typical.

The first of many electric fences

Yet more bulls. I tried to give them a wide berth. 

Apparently these boulders came from the Mangakino volcanic eruption. 60km away!

Today’s route is mostly through farmland, but there are a several bush-covered ridges to navigate through too, each about 150m high. So the route changed from hunting for orange markers in paddocks, to clambering up and down narrow overgrown trails through steep bush. 

Changing from farmland to narrow bush tracks

Mud and vines, yay.

Most of my shorts were drenched by now as well as my shoes - it’s amazing how much rain water fern fronds can dump on you as you are brushing past! I had the presence of mind to relocate my phone out of harm’s way. This wasn’t helped when it started raining again at 9am. It only lasted 15 minutes, so I waited it out under some trees on my way up a second big ridge.

Sheltering from the rain 

Looking down at farmland from the ridge

I found myself wondering if this was going to be the last day of my hike, and got a bit maudlin’ at the thought. I started singing my theme song, ‘All Sweet Things’, which seemed very appropriate round about now. It felt a little like saying goodbye to the TA, and as with me and goodbyes, left me a bit teary and with a lump in my throat. 

Anyway, I was enjoying the hike today, despite the dampness and hills. Soon I was back down from the ridge and on level ground for a while.

10am pic 1: back on farmland

10am pic 2: looking ahead, my first suspension bridge!

The suspension bridge lead over a stream, through to a small kahikatea (native white pine) wetlands reserve. This was a lovely change of pace - a nice even track through the trees.

A lovely Kahikatea grove 

They grow pretty tall!

More farmland - looking back down at the kahikatea reserve

Back to the farms, I had my first real struggle with navigation today. With no orange markers in sight, I had to rely on my TA app - which was telling me to go straight up a hill through multiple electric fences! I managed to clamber over several, getting an electric shock trying to get over a particularly badly built stile, until I had had enough and just followed a fence in the vague hope it would lead somewhere. Luckily it did - to an orange marker! I was back on track.

A shocking stile. Literally.

The view, while taking a much-needed break.

Still break time… there’s a big hill ahead

I’d noticed my left little toe was getting increasingly painful, and inspecting it during the rest break the nail seemed to be turning a little black. Not good. I’d been trying to shield it as I walked, but that was making progress up- and downhill a bit slower than normal. Ah well, I have plenty of time. 

The final push through to Te Kuiti goes up over several very steep hills to a trig point. So, up I continued to plod.

Watching a farmer in a cart herd hundreds of sheep below

After leading me past another rural airstrip, once again the markers disappeared, and I had to rely only on my app. Which led me straight down a steep hill, over multiple fences, into a big valley of a field - and then told me to climb a fence that couldn’t be climbed, and go through impassable bush. Aaargh! After persevering for a while, I tried my previous strategy of following a fence line and keeping my fingers crossed. And lo, after clambering up the fence line for 10 minutes, there was the orange marker. 

No, TA app! There is no path through this field. Just frustration. So much frustration!

Finally I was back on track, and eventually made it to the trig point.

Ahh, the view from the top

More views…

…and Te Kuiti!

Looking down at Te Kuiti, I think I finally realised that this would be the end of my TA trip today. I could forge ahead and battle with the Puteora forest for the next 7 days… but my toe was sore, and I decided - why not finish on a high and stop here. Today has been a good day, and it felt right.

A final struggle down the hill, limping a bit more now, and I was in civilisation. Well, Te Kuiti. It was about 2pm, and I stopped at the first place that looked like they could provide lunch.

Lunch! A very nice mac n cheese (and ham!)

I had a room in Te Kuiti if I needed it, at a Trail Angel’s house - but I was surprised when I checked the Intercity bus timetable that the bus to Auckland left at 3:45pm. That was only an hour away! I phoned Paul, and decided - I may as well come home tonight.

I quickly booked the ticket, and made my way down Main Street Te Kuiti to the bus stop. There was a tavern and a statue of Colin Meads by the bus stop to keep me amused while I waited.

Me and Colin Meads.

Just because I deserve it. 

Before I knew it I was on the bus, waving goodbye to Te Kuiti and the TA, heading home. It’s over! I really hadn’t had time to process that until now, I was never expecting to be going home today. 

Waiting in Hamilton for a connecting bus

In the bus I’ve been typing up this blog. Once past Hamilton I’ve been recognising the places I hiked through over the last couple of weeks, though in reverse - Hampton Downs, sections of trail near the motorway, Drury…  I’m also listening to All Sweet Things on Paul’s earphones, so I’m feeling a bit teary. Goodbye, TA, for now. But all sweet things will come again…

Tomorrow I’ll get onto completing the previous four blog entries, and probably the day after I’ll post a final wrap-up.  But I’m passing Manukau now - it won’t be long before I’ll be home, so I should post this blog entry and get ready. It’ll be great to see Paul and Rocco again, I’ve missed them!

Today’s route. Not including the trip home.