Day 42: Mt Pirongia to Honikiwi Rd (24km, 9.5 hours)

It was a restless sleep at the hut last night - mostly due to the loud Korean guys guffawing and clomping around, not very mindful of those of us trying to sleep. Then again, that's pretty typical for a busy DOC hut.

Today is going to be a fairly long day - I have to make it down the mountain, and then make some good progress to try to get half-way to Waitomo. And while I'd heard of a possible trail angel en route who is rumoured to offer a place for TA walkers to set up their tent, she is a bit too close to Pirongia and would leave me with a massive hike to get to Waitomo tomorrow.  So I hope to find a place to rough camp somewhere further down the trail. But as there may not be be anywhere to top up my water today, I need to carry two day's worth - that's over 6 litres, and will make for a rather heavy pack.

I was the first one up at the hut, and was away just after 6:30am. The trail was on an unexpectedly welcome boardwalk for almost a kilometre, with steps to the top of nearby Hihikiwi Peak; and then it followed a more typical tramping track for the next 5 km, to the bottom of Mt Pirongia.

Sunrise from the hut

Looking back at the hut from nearby Hihikiwi peak (you can just see it in the centre of the pic)

The route was fairly hard-going - mostly downhill though some uphills over various peaks; some steep clambering; always uneven with roots underfoot; and with increasingly frequent boggy sections. So, going was rather slow. But the trail was easy to follow and my GPS was working; and while downhills are tough on the knees they are much easier on the cardio. I arrived at the bottom of the mountain and exited the forest after three and a half hours, just in time for my 10am pic.

It's rather rough underfoot. 

Is this hiking, or rock climbing?

Nooo, my new shoes! (It was very boggy on the way down)

Occasional lovely views of peaks to the right...

...and farmland to the left. 

10am pic: just arrived at the bottom of the mountain. Bye Pirongia (and mud)!

Once off the mountain, the next 17km was straightforward road walking - mostly along gravel roads, apart from a brief tarsealed section in the middle. After almost 4 hours of this, it was time for lunch, under a tree by a driveway. I'd finished my salami yesterday, so it was time to break into the cheese I'd been carrying since Hamilton. Unfortunately it had started oozing yellow goo due to several intensely hot days in the pack, so was looking rather dodgy. I scraped off the worst of it - it seemed to taste OK. Fingers crossed.

That’s for me!

Time to break into the cheese (disguised inside a tortilla)

While eating lunch the owner of the driveway drove by, and stopped for a chat. She offered some helpful tips: apparently Casey (the trail angel) is just down the road, and is happy to top up TA walkers' water. Also there is a mostly-abandoned rural airfield after I leave the road later, which some hikers use as an unofficial campsite. Just what I need to know - that sounds like a perfect destination for me tonight!

Sure enough, Casey's place was another kilometre down the road. She was happy to top me up with an extra litre of water, and even gave me some chocolate to see me on my way. Now that's why they are called trail angels - thanks Casey! Casey warned me that cellphone coverage may be lost soon, so I stopped by the roadside to do a quick blog update and to make a couple of calls to arrange accommodation for the next few nights in Waitomo and Te Kuiti. 

2pm: sitting by the road posting this blog 😁

Several more kilometres later, the route veered off the gravel road and entered farmland, beginning the off-road trail that leads all the way to Waitomo. I climbed over a farm gate and walked for about a kilometre down a rough 4WD track, before sure enough a little airstrip appeared - really just a flat length of paddock. Clearly it was rarely used - sheep were grazing on it - but while it was a little exposed and windy, there was plenty of flat ground to set up my tent. 

Views from the airstrip

…and more views

The airstrip. That’s my tent on the left.

There was no water to spare for washing tonight, as I still needed to conserve water for tomorrow's hike. I carefully measured out enough for rehydrating the last of my spag bol, and a tiny bit extra for brushing my teeth after. I was feeling rather greasy and salty, but there was nothing to be done about that. I've also been careful with conserving power on my phone over the last three days as there's been no electricity since leaving Jules & Jel three days ago - I used the last of my reserve power pack to recharge the phone. Hopefully I have enough water and battery power left to see me through until I get to Waitomo tomorrow. Meanwhile, time for bed.

The sun going down behind the airstrip 

Today’s route