Day 43: Honikiwi Rd to Waitomo (25km, 9 hours)

The wind died down overnight, but it was cold. I had to wear my fleece for the first time this trip, inside my sleeping bag.

I finished the last of my muesli for breakfast, and was off at 6:30am. The trail was quite varied today - starting out over farmland on an old 4WD route, then veering into tramping tracks through bush, then back on farmland following fencelines, exiting eventually onto a gravel road.

Sunrise from my tent this morning

Starting off down farm trails…

…then tramping tracks through bush…

...looking out for the occasional orange marker...

...along fence lines through farmland... 

...exiting onto a country road.

Walking along today, I was starting to think about where I might want to finish up this leg of my hike. Unlike last summer's hike from Cape Reinga to Auckland, this trip has no definitive end. I'd planned the route as far as Tongariro - but it was dawning on me that I probably wouldn't make it that far, this trip.  I'd probably need a rest day before I got there so wouldn't be able to make it in time for my Tongariro hut booking; but more importantly, Paul has an operation coming up before then, and I'd like to be back in Auckland in time for that. After Te Kuiti tomorrow there’s a long 7-day forest hike through to Taumaranui, so finishing in Taumaranui or even Te Kuiti might be options. It would probably come down to how I was feeling. It's too soon to decide today - but I’ll probably need to make a decision about this during my hike tomorrow.

A few more kilometres later, it was back onto farmland. This time, steeper than ever. The route again followed more fencelines, past another airstrip - this one obviously used more frequently than my campsite, as there were multiple warning signs.

Still 4-5 hours till Waitomo apparently.

More fenceline hiking, some of it rather steep

Some great views. Looking back towards Pirongia (distant left) - I was on that mountain 2 days ago!

10am pic: still more fences! It’s getting hot and there’s a long way to go

After a couple more hours the route veered into bush, which thankfully gave some shade. The path headed downhill for a while, past several wild goats, then followed a small stream.

A sign!

Into the bush

I knew I had to cross the Moakurarua Stream at some point, and sure enough eventually there it was. The water was low and it was barely knee deep, so I took my shoes off and waded gingerly across. 

The Moakurarua Stream

Drying my feet on the other side. Nice tan lines!

It was lovely just sitting by the stream for 15 minutes, waiting for my feet to dry. I haven't had too many 'moments' on this leg of the TA, but this was one - just watching and listening to the water. I can't easily explain why, but tears welled up while I sat there, feeling a strangely deep connection to the stream I'd just crossed. I haven't said 'good-bye' to many places this trip, but after my feet were dry and my shoes were on I made a point of saying good-bye to the stream, and reluctantly continued on down the trail. I had a lump in my throat and a tear in my eye for the next 10 minutes.

There was still a lot of walking ahead, but the trail from this point was not quite as hard as it had been up till now. The trail continued steadily uphill along a horse track, then along forest tracks for several hours - apparently a mountain biking route, though I didn't see any today. 

A (mostly dry) clay track uphill.  It’s been used by horses.

Back into the forest - but the going is easier

A mountain biking trail

Finally, the end of the trail. Waitomo must be close!

There was still over an hour of road walking to go, to get to Waitomo, and it was hot now that I'd left the forest. My little toe was getting increasingly sore, and my fingers were starting to cramp. I hadn't stopped for lunch today - I didn't want to risk my oozy cheese, and couldn't be bothered fishing round in the bottom of my pack for my back-up (tuna). But I did pass a yellow plum tree on the side of the road, so lunch was 5 very nice plums. Finally, I arrived in Waitomo, and saw my destination (a holiday park) ahead. Although I had to pass the Tomo Bar & Eatery to get there, so decided to detour to the bar to reward myself with a beer and some chips.

And I was shouted to a free beer! Rehydrating on beer may not be wise, but it certainly did hit the spot after the last four days.

The holiday park was actually very nice. I was only after a small tent space, but got to use their laundry, showers, and charging room. After setting up the tent, and taking advantage of the facilities, I was feeling much fresher for the first time in days.

Camping under a nice shady tree

My fingers have been cramping all afternoon. Too much sweating?

An oozy mess. Time to ditch the cheese.

And back to the Tomo Bar for a pizza dinner. OK, and another beer.

I had intended to catch up on my last several days of blog entries after dinner, but the last four days were catching up with me. Or maybe it was the beer! I only had enough energy for another brief draft post to say I'd arrived safely, and then it was off to bed.

Today’s route