Day 16: Whananaki to Ngunguru (27km, 7.5 hours)

“Down in Whananaki, where the fellers chew tobacci...” has been going round in my head since I woke up.

Off and away at 7am today, over the footbridge across the estuary from North to South Whananaki. 

The longest footbridge in the Southern Hemisphere apparently. Who knew?

There were a lovely pair of cormorants on the bridge as I was passing. Or shags? I’m still confused between the two. But “cormorant” sounds more elegant.

South Whananaki is the place to be! The North Whananaki cars can’t get over the footbridge, so it is peaceful, and the beaches are gorgeous.

The trail wound for several hours in the hills and through farms just off the beach, with fantastic views of the sea, and the Poor Knights islands in the distance.

I was thinking of the last line of my favourite Thumpermonkey album: “So stop trying to fill your scrapbook / take a look at where you are”. So I stopped for a while and looked out at the sea, and listened to the surf.

I love the sea.

Anyway, the trail moved inland, became a farm road, then onto the main road in Matapouri. There’s been another bypass around the next beach area south of Matapouri, so it was road trudging for the next 4-5 hours: dodging traffic on a main road, then turning into a quieter side road, then eventually a gravel road (an old coach trail apparently) through to Ngunguru. I took another wrong turn at one point where the coach trail started - I think I was distracted by a passing quail with a large group of chicks. But a local driving by saw me and kindly did a u-turn to point me in the right direction.

10am pic: Whangarei’s not far now!

Lunch in Ngunguru: pie, soft drink and plums.

I got to Ngunguru a bit earlier than expected. I needed to cross the estuary to get to the Nikau Bay camp where I’m staying tonight - but James the camp owner kindly came across to pick me up early.

Thanks for the lift James!

They have a couple of spare beds for TA walkers, not used at the moment - so I have a bed tonight!

My little cabin

Dinner was laksa pot noodles, with fresh eggs and silver beet from the garden.

Oh no - I’m becoming one of those people who post pictures of food!

James poured me a very nice G&T while he explained tomorrow’s section. It’s going to be a long and logistically complex day - over 30km, with several big water crossings that can only be done at low tide. I’ll have to leave by 5am, and am going to get very wet and muddy! And there’ll be a long walk down Ocean Beach afterwards. 

James with G&T in hand.

James’ infamous billboard with the crossing details for tomorrow.

Afterwards I said good night to James and his wife Wendy and headed back to my cabin to update my blog and get ready for another big day. I’m a bit nervous about tomorrow, but I’m sure I’ll survive!

PS: I’m at the 344km mark today!