Day 9: Apple Dam to Puketi Forest Hut (25km, 10 hours)

There were clouds of midges around the tent when I woke at 5am, perhaps attracted by my head lamp. Even my DEET insect repellent didn’t keep them away. Luckily they didn’t seem to bite, though I breathed in quite a few.

I headed off at 5:30am with my head lamp to light the way. The path started doing a gravel road, then through an old forestry trail, then a narrow track leading down to Mangapukahukahu Stream.

Passed several beehives on the way. Too early for many bees to be out, but I could hear the buzzing inside.

So that’s what those boxes are for...

Entering a kauri forest area. Have to be careful to prevent the spread of kauri dieback disease.

Starting my hike down Mangapukahukahu Stream.

I’d been rather worried about today. I knew it was going to be a long day, with a lot of hiking up rivers, and a big ascent. However, hiking down the stream was fairly easy - crossing in the shallows from shoal to shoal, so the water was never more than knee deep. I headed down the stream for about 2 hours.

Hiking downstream.

Just as well trail running shoes dry quickly!

No one for miles, and lots of lovely swimming holes. I couldn’t resist a skinny dip.

I’ve reached the Waipapa river. Too deep to cross here - but the orange triangle shows the way.

Eventually the stream reached the Waipapa river. Clambering up a steep bank led to a shallow place to cross, then orange markers showed a trail along the river bank. However this was pretty arduous - I was having to leap over gaps and scramble for handholds, and my shin was getting hammered badly. “Recently upgraded”, my patootie! I decided in the end it was easier and more fun to go back down to the river and keep wading for another hour.

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Wading onwards up the Waipapa river. Upstream this time.

The water was deeper here, up to my upper thigh - I remembered in time to shift my phone out of my pocket. Eventually I rejoined the bush track just before it veered off from the river.

Leaving the river. Must remember to eat!

 

HOW far to go??

I knew after leaving the river I needed to climb another 450m in altitude, so I was prepared for some hard work. It started with endless stairs, going up through a big grove of young kauri trees. I think they had been put in to prevent trampers spreading kauri dieback disease through soil contact. 

A lovely grove of young kauri trees. But so many stairs!

After many hundreds of stairs, the trail became rougher, continuing to rise through Pukatea Ridge. This was hard going, with uneven footing. My shin was starting to hurt a lot by now and I was letting out the odd choice swear word. 

This reminds me of Raetea Forest. But more pungas and palms.

There were many pest traps along the way. After a particularly loud expletive I turned a corner and encountered a young trapper, who was coming the other way checking his traps - the only person I saw on the trail today. 

Eventually the trail popped out onto a gravel road. Only 9km to the campsite! I trudged along in the hot sun, limping badly as my shin had taken a battering today, and the road was steep and undulating. And, surrounded by the smell of death - every 50m were more pest traps, many with signs of dead possums or stoats.

It may look pretty, but the first 8km of this gravel road were a torturous slog.

Finally, after 2.5 more hours I made it to the Puketi Recreation Area campsite. It turns out there is a DOC hut there, and I felt like a treat - I phoned DOC and $20 later they gave me the access code. Fridge, cold shower, mattress, and coffee someone had left behind - luxury! And, I didn’t have to put up my tent!

A cup of coffee to celebrate at the DOC hut. Looks like I have the place to myself again.

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No need to put up the tent tonight!

Well, the first half of today was real fun, the second half a painful slog. My feet and shin were aching badly, but a cup of coffee, a shower and a spag bol helped take my kind off it. And the knowledge that I’ve now made it through the toughest sections! I’ll sleep well tonight.